First of all, let me introduce myself. My name is Eric, but many of you who frequent the Traxxas site probably know me better as Misbehavin’ through the online forums. Altogether, I’ve spent over 10 years in the RC hobby. Much of that time was spent as an avid Traxxas fan actively participating in the forums discussing some of my favorite vehicles to drive.

The folks at Traxxas thought it would be helpful and informative for their customers to have a report on the T-Maxx 3.3 from a user’s perspective. So, they asked me if I was interested, and I promptly responded with a resounding, “Yes!” Very shortly afterwards, I had a shiny new T-Maxx 3.3 at my doorstep ready for me to tear down, inspect, and see exactly what kind of power is under the hood.

It’s a new dawn for the monster truck that started the craze, and I know that many people want to see exactly what’s offered in this version of the truck. So to begin with, I’ll cover the truck’s components in detail, and then take it out for some hardcore action. Along the way, I’ll provide plenty of pictures and video so you’ll get to see exactly what you can expect when you pull your own T-Maxx 3.3 out of the box!

It’s a practice in self-restraint to pull the truck out of the box and tear it down for a picture session before I can take it out and run it. However, this is a necessary step to help you, the reader, understand exactly what you’re getting. So let’s get started. After all, the sooner I get through with this phase, the sooner I can hit the dirt! Keep in mind that all of the pictures below will open to larger versions for a closer look. All you need to do is to click on them.

Every time Traxxas modifies the T-Maxx, the paint scheme changes as well. This helps to distinguish it from the other versions of the truck. This paint scheme duplicates the scheme on the full-size T-Maxx running in the USHRA Monster Jam series. This time around I see cues of the Revo in the paint theme, despite the T-Maxx decals adorning the sides of the truck. If there was ever any question of the powerplant under the body, the “TRX 3.3” decal on the hood will remove all doubt!

In addition to the nice looking colors and decals, the rest of the body design is well thought out. You’ll find that all of the necessary body post holes have been made, as well as holes for the engine, fuel tank, and EZ-Start. Traxxas did not place a hole in the windshield for cooling purposes however. Depending upon the environment in which you live, this may or may not be necessary. For that reason Traxxas leaves this one matter up to you.

Traxxas always seems to cover the customers well in regards to included accessories and tools. You’ll receive plenty of wrenches, enough to cover any aspect of the truck. Later on you may find it worthwhile to upgrade to some better tools, but Traxxas has initially covered this aspect very well out-of-the-box. The popular EZ-Start makes another appearance on the truck, making it easy for anyone to start, time after time. You’ll also find plenty of preload spacers for the shocks, as well as body clips, antenna hardware, and extra air filter accessories.

When it comes to included documentation, Traxxas is one company that stands at the top of the mountain. A large, full-color manual covers topics from break-in to tuning, and everything in between. A separate exploded-view diagram helps you maintain the truck when it becomes necessary, and a DVD video allows you to see the break-in and tuning process firsthand. So if you’re new to nitro, don’t be worried. It simply doesn’t get any easier than this!

Even though the truck’s body arrives fully decaled, there’s still plenty more stickers included if you wish to go crazy and further decorate the truck. If not, hang on to them and use them when you paint your own body. I’m glad to see that Traxxas has now taken the step of dividing the stickers onto a couple of smaller sheets. I always liked the large assortment of extra stickers they provide, but the super-large sheet they used to include always seemed to get bent up during shipping. This is one change I’m very pleased to see!

The Traxxas TQ-3 AM radio makes another appearance with the T-Maxx 3.3. The three-channel TQ-3 is a sturdy, proven system that includes electronic trim controls, servo reverse, high power output for long-range performance, and an ergonomic grip with the integrated 3rd channel rocker switch. While some may prefer to see a high-end radio as stock equipment, using a simple, reliable AM radio allows the truck to pack as many features onto the chassis as possible while still maintaining an affordable price. The TQ-3 will reliably serve most peoples needs, and then they can choose what’s right for them when it’s time for an upgrade.

T-Maxx fans should be happy in regards to the layout of the truck, as this is one of the things that has always made the T-Maxx popular. The servos and electronics are all towards the front of the truck, and the receiver and batteries are sealed in protective cases to protect them from the elements. The area around the engine is a little tighter than before, due to the larger cooling head found on the new .20-sized powerplant. The new T-Maxx engine is something we’ll be covering in better detail a little later!

The T-Maxx shock towers should look very familiar, as their overall design is carried over from the previous version of the truck. The body post design has changed slightly, taking its square-shaped cues from the Revo. They provide three individual mounting positions for the upper end of the shocks, allowing you to adjust their angle. You may notice the new gray shock bodies; along with many other components, they received the new gray treatment.

If you glance over the truck quickly, you may miss one of the best changes made to the Maxx platform this time around. With all of the gray parts stealing your attention, it’s easy to miss that the T-Maxx now uses the Revo axle carriers with their larger bearings. These carriers capture the ball ends for the steering and toe links, providing a positive hold on the link that’s used. The Revo carriers have seals that keep the dirt and debris away from the pivot balls, while still allowing them to be quickly adjusted. This setup has worked well on the Revo, and now T-Maxx owners will enjoy this feature as well. However, the biggest benefit of the Revo axle carriers is that they allow the T–Maxx to arrive with the Revo axles installed as well.

The Revo-style axles are much stronger than the standard Maxx axles, which allow them to resist twisting. To seal the driveshafts from dirt, blue silicone boots cover the joint where the driveshaft halves fit together. The added strength of these driveshafts will come in very handy with a 3.3cc engine powering the truck. In fact, ever since the introduction of these axles on the Revo, I’ve believed these axles to be the best plastic slider solution available. I even prefer them to CVD-style units, due to their ultra-high reliability and their ability to handle the enormous suspension travel of the Revo and now the T-Maxx 3.3. This is why my Revo still uses the stock plastic sliders, and I have never explored CVD-style options.

The same modular approach with the front and rear of the truck is used as before. A few screws is all that’s needed to remove the entire front or rear suspension, allowing you to easily work on the truck. The driveshafts exiting the transmission are standard Maxx-style shafts, and they won’t see as much driveline shock as the axles do, so they should hold up fine.

Even though most of the suspension components look familiar, there is one other noticeable difference. Sharp eyes will pick up on the fact that the suspension arms inner bracing has been notched slightly, to allow for the new larger Revo axles. I mentioned that the Revo carriers used larger bearings a little earlier, one of which is much larger. The inner bearing is 12x18mm, while the outer bearing is a tad bigger than the standard T-Maxx bearing was. This new outer bearing is 6x12mm. The 2.5mm thick axle pin and 14mm hex are still the same, as is the wheel nut.

Even after the introduction of the 2.5 Maxx, some owners still complained of chassis flex in their trucks, despite the 2.5mm thick chassis. So Traxxas beefed up this integral part of the truck’s backbone yet again, this time providing a chassis plate with a thickness of 4mm. You’ll also notice that the hole that was previously under the tuned pipe is absent now as well. This further eliminates any flexing, and increases the overall strength of the truck.

While many of the existing electronic components of the truck look and perform the same, some components have been altered. The battery box is a good example of an item that received a splash of color. It’s been recast using the gray plastic.

However, on the opposite side of the truck, the new receiver box was made with a purpose. That purpose was to house the Traxxas AM receiver, as well as the OptiDrive unit made famous by the Revo. The receiver box is much easier to open than the previous version as well. With the inclusion of the OptiDrive, smooth forward motion and reverse operation have been blended together on the T-Maxx. The result is a winning combination, and now there’s no need to remove reverse if you’re after a smoother power delivery. The OptiDrive is also much more efficient than the clutch-based system used on the 2.5 Maxx, reducing the amount of rotating mass and weight.

Aside from its primary purpose of preventing you from accidentally shifting the truck into forward or reverse while moving, the OptiDrive also provides a few other useful functions. In reverse, it limits the amount of power sent from the engine to the transmission. This prevents unnecessary wear and tear on the transmission, and helps you maintain control while backing the vehicle up. Additionally, in the event the battery voltage drops to an unsafe level, the OptiDrive will return the engine to an idle state and apply the brakes to prevent a runaway scenario.

To further protect the T-Maxx from a runaway situation, Traxxas included a throttle return spring on the truck this time around. One end is secured to the transmission while the other is connected in front of a linkage collar. Should the onboard power become suddenly disconnected from the onboard electronics, preventing the OptiDrive from being able to safely stop the vehicle due to loss of power, the throttle return spring will close the carburetor allowing the truck to glide to a stop. All of these new improvements make the T-Maxx safer, more fun, and more reliable than ever!

Since we’ve been talking about the smooth delivery of power provided by the new OptiDrive equipped T-Maxx, it’s only fair to spend a moment discussing how the truck puts that power to the ground. The Revo’s Talon tires make their first appearance on a Maxx platform with this release, and are pre-glued onto a set of sharp-looking chrome Split-Spoke wheels. While hardcore racers will opt to use a tire more suited to their specific needs, the Talon tires will offer good all-around traction for most owners while providing good wear characteristics. There’s little doubt that T-Maxx fans will find the Talon tires to have much more bite in the dirt than the traditional Chevron-style T-Maxx tires.

When viewing the underside of the truck, you get a good glimpse of another one of my favorite changes, hardened hex head screws. These screws are used throughout the vehicle, with countersunk fasteners being used where appropriate on the underside. You’ll also notice the underside is graced with the gray parts from end to end. Off to the side, and up front, you can get a good look at the Traxxas 2055 servo that throws out 80 oz-in of torque to steer the front wheels when needed. Up top, Traxxas 2018 servos handle the throttle, braking, and reversing duties. The 2018 servos provide 42 oz-in of torque at 6.0 volts.

While the new gray skid plates offer a fresh new look compared to the black ones, Traxxas doesn’t rely solely on plastic for such an important part. Underneath the skid plate you’ll find a stainless steel brace. This brace helps both the skid plate and the new bulkheads above it. The front of the skid plate has positive positioning points built into it for the steering linkage posts.

The steering linkage has been carried straight over from the previous version of the T-Maxx. This setup has served this truck platform well, and there’s no real reason for it to change. The steering linkage does still make use of plastic bushings out of the box, but a quick swap to some 5x8mm bearings will have the linkage operating even smoother. So rest-assured that most of the previous T-Maxx tricks like this continue to work on the new 3.3 version of the truck!

While the stock 2.5 T-Maxx brakes were pretty good, Traxxas felt that the new T-Maxx 3.3 would need beefed-up brakes to handle the additional power and speed. Having already dropped a Revo-style transmission in the T-Maxx made this an easy task, as it allowed Traxxas to carry over the Revo braking hardware as well. True semi-metallic pads pinch a cross-drilled stainless steel brake disk when called upon by the braking servo. This gives tons of stopping power to the T-Maxx, enough to flip the truck over if you aren’t careful!

I mentioned the bulkheads briefly a moment ago, but let me discuss these in a little more depth now. The bulkheads are a focal point of the stress during many impacts, and therefore a very crucial part of the truck’s chassis. The bulkheads also serve the purpose of connecting the suspension to the 4mm aluminum chassis. Knowing that many owners wanted to see a stronger bulkhead on the Maxx, Traxxas redesigned the bulkheads and added new hardened hinge pins for additional strength. Material was added to eliminate stress points while maintaining the same overall mounting dimensions. This means the new bulkheads can be used on the older Maxx trucks, and the older bulkheads can fit the 3.3.

I’m sure the question on many owners minds will be, is the wheelie bar really needed? Well, I won’t spoil that answer…yet. You’ll have to read on to find the answer to this question. However, Traxxas evidently thought so, and therefore hit the design boards. The result is a wheelie bar that clips into place on the rear skid plate and bumper. The wheelie bar offers adjustability in the form of four heights it can be placed at, offering full nose-high wheelies or the ability to keep the truck’s nose on the ground. The wheelie bar is easily removable should you want to perform some hardcore bashing, and are worried that you might land a little too hard on the tail end of the truck.

II briefly mentioned the transmission earlier, so let’s cover it in much more detail now. While some of the other features have really made an impression on me, the Revo’s transmission making an appearance is undoubtedly one of the bigger changes you’ll find on the T-Maxx 3.3. The appearance of the transmission has been changed slightly, such as the reverse input has been moved, but the inner workings of the transmission still function the same. Even the Revo’s OptiDrive sensor is carried over, so that you won’t accidentally shift into reverse while the truck is moving.

On the engine side of the transmission, you’ll find even more hardware borrowed from the Revo. I’m specifically talking about the slipper clutch. This device worked extremely well in the Revo, allowing for super-precise adjustments. Then they bolted a metric-pitch pinion to the spur assembly. The icing on the cake is that once you have the slipper set to your liking, you won’t disturb the setting if the spur gear needs to be changed.

Since the design layout of the transmission is borrowed from the Revo, looking inside the transmission is just like peering into the Revo’s gearbox. All of the gears should look familiar if you’re also a Revo-owner, and, if you’re not, you’ll soon come to enjoy this drivetrain setup. Not only is it laid out well, but it also offers a great deal of flexibility due to the ability to alter the internal gear ratios. Combine this with the range of available spur gears and clutch bells, and you’ll find it easy to get tire-shredding low-end torque or blistering top end speed. The transmission still uses a pawl-style shifting mechanism, allowing you to tailor the exact shifting point to your liking.

The transmission sends its power to the front and rear differentials. The T-Maxx differentials have been one area that previous owners have wanted to see improved. The differential housings allowed the differential internals to flex under severe load, affecting the mesh of the ring and pinion gears. So, just like with the bulkheads, Traxxas went back to the drawing board and redesigned the housings to be stronger, eliminating the flexing that was seen before. Then they used hardened hex head hardware to hold the case halves together. The end result is a differential that should provide plenty of trouble free operation, even with the powerful .20 ci engine throwing the truck around.

The differential rides on 10x15mm bearings inside the differential case halves. The pinion gear spins inside two 6x12mm bearings. Separating the ring gear from the cup shows that it’s filled to the brim with grease. The differentials are not fully sealed, but this should pose little problem for most people. Many T-Maxx fans are bashers, and they aren’t necessarily worried about frequently changing their oil viscosity to account for changing traction conditions. However, even though the differentials aren’t fully sealed, most thicker differential oils should be able to be used without any real issues should you prefer to go this route.

Now we come to the heart of the T-Maxx 3.3, and the part many potential owners will likely be the most interested in. That is the 3.3cc, .20 cubic inch, powerplant. Traxxas customers have been asking for power beyond what the TRX 2.5 provides for a long time. With the TRX 3.3 Traxxas provides exactly what its customers have been asking for, in an engine that still drops into the same spot as the TRX 2.5. This makes it the largest drop-in replacement engine available for the T-Maxx while still using all of the factory hardware.

The Traxxas TRX 3.3 engine uses an oversized aluminum head that is finished in blue anodizing just like the TRX 2.5R. Super large cutouts in the sides still allow you to easily reach the screws that secure the engine to the engine mount. This engine head also uses a protective plastic ring just as the TRX 2.5 does, although a set of five screws lock the ring onto the head so it doesn’t pop off while driving, jumping, or crashing!

The overall construction of the engine is very similar to the TRX 2.5, so if you’ve had any experience with the main powerplant offered by Traxxas you’ll be in familiar territory. However, make no mistake. The engine is bigger. To distinguish it from the TRX 2.5, Traxxas has emblazoned TRX 3.3 on the side of the block, right alongside the engine block’s cooling fins.

One of the nicest features of the new TRX 3.3 engine, is that it maintains compatibility with the TRX 2.5 EZ-Start system. This also means that the pullstart from the TRX 2.5 will fit as well, should you decide to go that route. The EZ-Start system is one of the best options available for beginners in the nitro genre. Not only does it provide an easy way to start your Traxxas truck, but it can also diagnose common starting problems as well. This is often a big benefit for novices, and even some lazy veterans!

The TRX 3.3 also makes use of the composite carburetor that was first used on the TRX 2.5. This carburetor provides several benefits over standard aluminum carburetors, especially in the fact that it avoids heat affecting the incoming fuel. When incoming air and fuel is not heated by the carburetor, it provides a much more precise mixture throughout the engine’s temperature range. The composite carburetor also allows for a very fine range of adjustments. While this allows for precise control over the fuel and air mixture, it’s often a struggling point for some hobbyists. Therefore, I should point out that all adjustments made should be small. I’d recommend using no more than 1/12 of a turn at a time when leaning the engine. Then run the truck to allow the new tune to settle itself out before attempting to make further adjustments.

The various internal components of the TRX 3.3 should look very familiar to anyone who has taken apart their TRX 2.5, they’re just sized larger for the .20 ci mill. I am glad to see this, as the TRX 2.5 was simply a groundbreaking engine when it was released, and is still one of the best small block engines on the market. For them to base the TRX 3.3 upon this, shows how well designed the TRX 2.5 was to begin with. All of the parts are precision-made, and the piston and sleeve feature true ABC construction for long life and excellent power characteristics.

I’ll admit that I was a little curious as to how the sizes of the TRX 2.5 and TRX 3.3’s piston and sleeves would compare. So, I dug through my various RC bins until I came across an engine I’d torn down and had never reassembled. Then I threw them side by side for a quick comparison. The bigger TRX 3.3 engine parts I placed on the left of the TRX 2.5 parts were much larger indeed, making the extra displacement very easy to see. I then placed the TRX 2.5 piston inside of the sleeve of the TRX 3.3, making the size difference between the two engines even more obvious!

One final note about the new TRX 3.3 powerplant is that it maintains mounting compatibility with all of the TRX 2.5 header and pipe combos you may have come to love. While you should take care to choose a pipe that suits your needs, it’s nice to know that a healthy selection exists for the engine upon its introduction. Given that the engine comes equipped with the same pipe and header used by the TRX 2.5, I’d imagine the right choice might help the engine breathe a little easier and provide you any extra power boost you may be looking for. Seeing that there are Resonator pipes for the T-Maxx on the way, I would expect that Traxxas tested the TRX 3.3 with them, and they know exactly how well they’ll wake the engine up.

Before you fire up your truck for the first time, there are some items you’ll need to complete first. However, before you even tackle those items, I recommend that you watch the DVD and read through the manual. Don’t make the mistake of thinking the DVD is a substitute for the manual either, as the manual covers the truck much more completely than the DVD. The better you understand your truck, the better your overall experience will be.

After reading the manual and watching the DVD, you’ll want to step through the few items needed to get your truck ready to roll. There isn’t a lot that you need to tackle, as Traxxas has already handled most of the work for you.

The first thing I addressed with my T-Maxx was the receiver antenna. I ran the antenna wire through my fingers to straighten it out, and then threaded it through the supplied tube. If you find this difficult, sprinkle a little baby powder on the antenna wire. It’ll help tremendously. Then I pushed the tube into its resting place on the receiver box.

Traxxas has made an improvement to the antenna mount by adding an aluminum nut which threads onto the receiver box. Pass this nut down the antenna tube, and simply thread it onto the receiver box by turning it clockwise. Once you get it started, use the included custom tool to run it the rest of the way down.

I used the supplied antenna cap to protect the antenna wire where it passes out the top of the tube. I also find that a small section of fuel tubing helps to keep the excess wire from dangling loose.

The onboard electronics will need a source of power, and the T-Maxx comes equipped with a battery holder for AA batteries. While this will work in the short run, over the long term I’d recommend making the move to a receiver pack. I do wish that Traxxas would have placed a plug between the battery holder and the power switch on the T-Maxx like they offer on the Revo. If you make this change later on, you’ll need to pick-up the optional wiring harness (part #3034) as listed in the T-Maxx 3.3 parts list. As far as a receiver pack, you’ll find that the standard 5-cell hump-style (part #3037) from Traxxas will work perfectly. When using a rechargeable receiver pack you can use it in conjunction with the Traxxas Power Charger, which will fully charge your receiver pack in about an hour. It’s a very affordable option when compared to other peak chargers and much faster than a low-output wall charger. If you do end up going the AA alkaline battery route, make sure to use good brand name cells for the longest possible life.

A few other battery-related items need to be addressed as well. The first of these is the radio. It takes a total of eight AA batteries, and again I recommend the use of good name brand cells. They last longer, and give you a much better range of operation. You’ll also need a standard 6-cell 7.2V flat battery pack. Make sure the pack holds a good charge, and don’t just grab a half dead pack you no longer use for your electrics. Traxxas offers the new TRX Power Charger (part #3030X) that will not only charge a 5-cell rechargeable receiver pack, but it will also charge a 7.2V 6-cell EZ-Start battery pack.  This is an excellent option for beginners as well as more advanced hobbyists who want a compact and convenient charging solution. The TRX 3.3 will need a solidly charged battery to get it turned over, especially during the early stages of the break-in process.

I should mention a tip regarding the installation of the body. Make sure that the blue starter wire is placed in the notch at the back of the hole for the engine. Otherwise the body may rub the wire, causing it to become damaged when you drive your truck. Also, depending upon the climate, you may want to cut a hole in the windshield of the truck to help provide airflow to the engine. I’ve found that I get the best results by using a body hole reamer to make a pilot hole. Then I follow up with an appropriately sized hole saw to make a nice round circle. (Editor's Note: Use extreme caution and all appropriate safety gear, such as safety glasses, with power tools. Keep hands and loose articles of clothing clear of cutting and drilling tools. Adult supervision required.) If you need further assistance on this subject, the manual is a good reference source for this topic as well.

After receiving my T-Maxx 3.3 (I still smile every time I say 3.3), I couldn’t wait to break it in. I first spent a couple of evenings doing a teardown and rebuild to give anyone reading this article an enlightened view of the goodies that Traxxas stashed on this truck. Then, on the Friday after receiving my truck, I took it out and started the break-in process as laid out in the Traxxas manual.

The weather was in the 50’s, but I knew I needed to work quickly. Once the light faded, the temperature would start to drop. I didn’t want to break the engine in once the ambient temperatures dropped too much. You can do things to retain the engine’s heat, but it just complicates the break-in procedure. I prefer to keep things simple.

I started with a freshly charged battery, I fueled the tank, and I switched on the radio equipment. Prior to this stage, I had also performed a range check with the radio. With the basics out of the way, I pressed the button on the EZ-Start, and got....nothing. The engine tripped the handheld’s protection circuitry right away. I tried to turn the flywheel by hand and it was super tight. Traxxas recommends letting the engine warm up to room temperature.

Once the engine block was warmed, the EZ-Start turned the engine over much easier, and I soon had it fired up and running. The very tight initial fit of the piston and sleeve provided a great deal of compression. However that isn’t unusual, especially with a brand new high performance engine. As the break-in process takes place, the engine will loosen up. According to Traxxas, the engine really wakes up around the tenth tank. Later, I saw a noticeable improvement in power at this point as well.

After starting the engine for the first time, I began driving the truck as instructed. The engine seemed to be running about right, which was slightly on the rich side. I left the needles alone. Soon I finished the first tank and then stepped through the rest of the break-in procedure. It took a little over an hour, and then it was behind me. The light was starting to fade by then, so I stepped through the after-run procedures in the manual, packed the truck up, and called it a night.

The next day I took the T-Maxx 3.3 to my local track, Monkey Bottom Raceway. The beginning of racing season is not too far away and the track was full of guys trying to polish their racing skills to get ready for the upcoming events. I thought the dirt and jumps would be a perfect place to put the T-Maxx 3.3 through its paces and see how well it jumped and performed.

It didn’t take me but just a few minutes to get the truck out and have it fired up. Then I hit the track, ready to catch a few guys off guard. Most of these guys hadn’t even seen anything on the new TRX 3.3, and those that had certainly weren’t expecting to see one ripping up the track a few days after it was announced!

I started turning heads immediately as I rounded the first corner and hit the double. I was impressed with the authority with which the TRX 3.3 attacked the track. Then, I cut though the following corner and made my way around the track to the triple, and hit it as a double/single. As I rounded the corner and hit the next jump and got some killer air to the next tabletop, I started noticing that a few other vehicles on the track were starting to stop and hit the side pipes. It looked like I had garnered a little attention, just as I figured I might. I drove the truck around until the tank was nearly empty, and then brought it in and shut it down for a few minutes to make sure everything was still in good shape and fastened down tight.

After answering a few questions about the truck from people swearing it was a custom big block conversion, I popped the body off and let the guys get a glimpse of the hardware the truck was equipped with. There were more than a few people impressed with the new Maxx, and before the day was over I passed the truck around giving several of them a little taste of what the TRX 3.3 had to offer.

As soon as I could get away from the crowd I had the truck back on the track. I was simply amazed at the power the .20 cubic inch engine offered. It simply felt like a big block. I’ve driven a couple of big-block conversion trucks and this truck simply matched them on overall power output. However, it felt much more balanced when running it deep into the corners. Without a doubt the tires feeling a little slick in the dirt helped that to an extent. It’s obvious that the fact the engine is still using a small block footprint helps as well.

While I was fighting the fact that the truck had limited traction on the dry and dusty dirt, a good straight run up a jump put some serious distance between the truck and the ground. To be honest, the T-Maxx provided me with much more excitement than a T-Maxx ever had before. The runs down the straightway had the T-Maxx flat out screaming! In fact, even my O.S. 18TM powered Revo pales in comparison to this truck in regards to engine output. It simply pushed the suspension of the T-Maxx to its limits with its sick power!

After trying my hand at catching some air, I pulled the truck off of the track and into the grassy area where most people park and set up during the races. The tires would bite much harder here, and the front end of the truck would lift very easily. This made it apparent why the truck was equipped with a wheelie bar, and it is very much warranted. I couldn’t help but think of all of the “how can I make my truck wheelie” threads on the forum. These “wheelie nuts” need to get their hands on one of these trucks. Once they do, they’ll find their desires are addressed. If you can’t make a T-Maxx 3.3 wheelie, you’re doing something wrong!

ne factor really surprised me, although I’d like to use the engine in a few races first before I can express full confidence in my findings. That is the excellent rate of fuel consumption. The Traxxas TRX 3.3 really didn’t seem to use any more fuel during my testing than the TRX 2.5 does. I had expected to see a noticeable difference, but there was none to be found. Keep in mind that this is only based upon the testing I’ve done up to this point, but I feel as if it should hold up as I get more time with the TRX 3.3. This is good news for the racers, as extra power often means more fuel consumed. The end result, in many cases, is that the benefits are negated by having to make an extra pit stop. This simply doesn’t appear to be the case with the new Traxxas TRX 3.3 though!

If there’s any complaint to be made about the truck it’s this: there may be too much power at times. On the track, you’ll likely want to optimize the truck with an appropriate set of tires. Off of the track, on high traction surfaces, you’ll find yourself using the wheelie bar frequently. After a few days of running, I did manage to damage my rear driveshaft. To help prevent driveline damage, I suggest slightly backing off the slipper nut.

The new bulkheads proved to be extremely tough throughout all of the punishment that they were dealt at the track. I won’t lie; the truck took some tough tumbles after some bad landings. Some of these botched landings were from me, some were from some of the many people that wanted a chance to run the truck. While the suspension arms appear to be the same, from a perspective of strength, I never had an issue with them. Even after my testing at the track, I took the truck out on several other occasions bashing in the backyard. I was able to spend more time bashing and driving than I ever had before with my previous T-Maxx trucks. Bear in mind that while nothing’s indestructible, the new T-Maxx 3.3 should provide its owner with a truck that is much tougher than ever before. This truck is a winner, and I think it’s time for me to move to the 3.3 platform entirely!

The T-Maxx 3.3 is going to be everything T-Maxx fans hoped for. The truck is simply stronger and faster than ever before. The 3.3 (.20 ci) engine is technically still a small block engine, but it certainly doesn’t believe it! The truck simply has that big block grunt and power, making it the most fun, out of the box Maxx I’ve ever driven to date. If you thought the jump from the Pro.15 to the 2.5 Maxx was something, you haven’t seen anything yet!

While the power is nothing short of amazing, there’s more to this truck than just the new engine. The new Revo-style transmission with the OptiDrive, eliminates the bucking that previous Maxx owners used to have to put up with in able to have a reversing option in their trucks. The new Revo specific rubber, while not suited for all tracks, should definitely provide the bashing crowd with much more traction than the previous Chevron tires did.

Traxxas has taken the RC world’s most popular truck, and showed that old dogs can learn new tricks. While the T-Maxx continues to outsell other monster trucks by a healthy margin, Traxxas has given their customers yet another reason to keep the faith. And in doing so, yet another reason the T-Maxx is the truck upon which other monsters will be judged by!